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How to replace your oil cooler and EGR cooler (or delete it)

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  • How to replace your oil cooler and EGR cooler (or delete it)

    Before starting, preclean the top of the engine if you can, as much as you can. Use compressed air to blow any residual dust/dirt away from around where the intake manifold meets the heads.
    Clean everything as it comes off the truck and cover up the holes as you open them. You don"t want dirt falling into any part of the engine. Cleanliness is an absolute must, as is patience.

    Once you have the oil cooler ready to come out, have an old beach towel laid across the front of the truck to catch all the oil dripping off of it. Once you have the oil cooler out, you have to clean the cavity that it came out of. Get any/all junk out of this area. You will likely find your HPOP reservoir screen has torn. The oil cooler kit comes with a new updated one anyway. Do not remove that screen at this time. Cover the screen with rags and clean the cavity above it.
    If you use a solvent such as brake cleaner, make sure none of that solvent makes its way into the area covered by the screen. That area is the "HPOP reservoir" which means that the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) gets it oil from that location. When the HPOP sucks that oil in, you really don"t want it taking a drink of brake cleaner and any junk that may be floating in it.
    After cleaning the cavity above the screen, remove the screen. This is where you MUST be very very careful about dropping stuff and getting dirt in here. The HPOP reservoir must be absolutely surgically clean. No hair, dust, lint. Nothing. If your screen was not torn, and you were vigilant about not getting any solvents down in that area, and you are confident that NOTHING will get down in there, replace the screen with the new one and skip this step.
    When you get that clean (and I can not overly stress that word CLEAN), put the new screen over the reservoir, pour 9 tenths of a quart of oil in and cover the cavity until you are ready to drop the new oil cooler into place.
    To explain the reason for the cleanliness required:
    Anything that gets sucked up by the HPOP is sent to the IPR (injection pressure regulator) where it can wreak havoc with the High pressure oiling system. A small piece of debris, if missed, can kill your IPR. If it makes it past your IPR, it could get caught in one of your injectors. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!!!

    One difficult part will be the exhaust part of this. The up-pipe on the passenger side has to be replaced (if deleting your EGR cooler). That means it will have to be unbolted from the exhaust manifold and the y-pipe. This can create some issues getting the y-pipe to mate PERFECTLY with the turbo flange upon reinstallation. That connection must be perfect before that clamp goes back on or you will lose boost, the truck will be a dog and you will hear a loud hiss.
    I suggest that when you remove the passenger side up-pipe and put the new one on from your delete kit. The connection to the new up-pipe and the y-pipe requires a metal gasket. Don"t forget that gasket. Then tighten the bolts to hold the connection from the y-pipe to your new up-pipe. At this time, I recommend that you put the bolts through the flange on the new up-pipe and through the exhaust manifold. Thread the nuts on the bolts only one or two threads. Remove the bolts on the drivers side up-pipe from the exhaust manifold also, and put new bolts through the flange with the nuts threaded only a few threads as well. This will give you the "wiggle room" you will need when reinstalling the y-pipe to the turbo.

    When you go to put the turbo back in, have the marmon clamp on the flange of the turbo, butting up against the body of the turbo (turbo inlet/y-pipe side). Then get the y-pipe set into the turbo perfectly. You might want to run your finger around the connection to make sure it is right, square and straight all the way around. Then while holding the connection together, get the clamp on the connection and tighten it just enough to hold the connection together, but don"t tighten it to spec just yet. You want the clamp tight enough to keep the connection together but allow the y-pipe to twist if needed. This is where you have to make sure that the up-pipes on both sides of the truck are lined up with the exhaust manifolds and tighten those connections down finger tight. Then go back up and tighten the clamp on the turbo to spec, then go back and tighten the exhaust manifold connections. This is the best way that I have found to get it done right the first time. It really sucks if you have to take this all apart because of a leak, trust me, been there done it and it does indeed suck. Keep in mind that the clamp on the turbo to y-pipe connection is only there to hold it in place once the connection is properly set and perfect. The marmon clamp is NOT designed to pull the connection into alignment and it will NOT do that.

    If you have not already installed it, I recommend that updated fuel pressure regulator spring be installed while doing this for two reasons. One is that you will have the whole fuel regulator housing off the truck and in your hand and it is VERY easy to install the necessary parts.
    Second is that the stock fuel pressure regulator spring is well known to weaken over time and that may allow the fuel pressure to fall to a dangerously low condition. Get the fuel pressure below 45psi and you will be replacing injectors. They aren"t cheap.

    I also recommend replacing the turbo oil supply line if your existing line has a flexible stainless steel joint in the line. The stock line with the flexible stainless steel joint in it can develop a restriction in the flex joint, choking off the oil supply. It is recommended for lengthen the life of your turbo.
    HOWEVER, the early 03 oil cooler cover is of a different design, and to replace the oil supply line on an early 03 engine would require the separate purchase of an updated (04-up) oil cooler cover. So, how do you know if you have an early 03? Look carefully at the way the turbo oil supply line connects to your oil cooler cover. If this connection appears to be a large nut on the supply line, you will need a new oil cooler cover to be able to replace the turbo oil supply line. A pic of the early 03 turbo oil supply line connection to the oil cooler cover is shown below: If you see this, you would need a new oil cooler cover.

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    Part numbers:

    3C3Z-6A642-CA is the part number you want for the oil cooler. That is the cooler,the gasket and the HPOP reservoir screen. You will re-use the oil cooler cover that is on the truck now.

    If you have decided to go with an EGR delete route, then order part number 3C3Z-9439-AA, but you need 2. (those are the intake gaskets, sold separately) and just one of part number 3C3Z-9T514-AD to get the turbo mounting hardware.
    By going with the separate part numbers, and leaving out the EGR cooler replacement stuff you will not need, you will save about 50 bucks.
    If you are going to keep an EGR cooler on your truck, order part number 3C3Z-9433-BE which gets you two intake manifold gaskets, the turbo mounting hardware, and all the stuff you will need to replace the EGR cooler.

    For those of you that need to clean your turbo as part of this repair, the part number for the Turbo Reconditioning Kit is 4C4Z-9V424-AA

    There are some parts I recommend replacing, though they are not absolutely required.
    One is the updated fuel regulator spring part number 6E7Z-9C165-B.
    Should Tousley not have that number in stock, and getting that part number to you would require too much time, you can also order part number 3C3Z-9T517-AG which would still get you all the right parts for the regulator, but costs more due to getting some parts you will not necessarily need (specifically the fuel pressure regulator cover). The first part number will be around 38 bucks, the second around 52 bucks.

    One other is the turbo oil supply line covered above, part number 3C3Z-9T516-A

    You MIGHT need the updated turbo oil drain tube...If your truck is an 03 through early 05, you will likely need the new style. The old style had crimping in the bends that slowed the oil flow exiting the turbo. That would cause the oil to overheat. That would cause premature wear in the turbo. Part number 6C3Z-9T515-A

    Below, you will see the PDF files needed to do this repair.
    Good Luck, keep your cool, keep it clean and happy wrenching !! :beer:
    Attached Files
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